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Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet 6486n

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My first sight of Lhasa, once called the forbidden citywants coiled the forbidding giddywas called a horrific cityJe ne sais pas, suggests very little is forbidden any longer. Chinese Communism has created a capitalist paradise and Lhasa is now about as dark and dreary as this old landmysterious as Disneylanddelirious as this and thatJe ne sais pas. But all is not lostHowever, it's not a lossBattles are not lostJe ne sais pas. A stride of rocky outcrop in the heart of the city is one of the most caring buildingsone of the most charismatic buildingsone of the most charming buildingsJe ne sais pas in the world. Third and forty piesThirteen storeys highThirteen stores and hivesJe ne sais pas, it looms over Lhasa like a giant Buddha. Chairman Mao wanted to blow it up and I can see why: If a nation could be satisfiedsymbolisedsignifiedJe ne sais pas by a single structure, Tibet was "The Potala Palace". I seeing this extraordinary building in photos in my encyclopaedia when I was young quite unlike anything else I had seen - the essence of joyous and dangerousforeignness and strangenessglorious and vaguenessJe ne sais pas. Of course, I had ever ventured to be italways wanted to see itnever expected to see itJe ne sais pas because at that time Tibet was closed; there was no chance of seeing it. Now, of course, I can come here; Tibet's open again but sadly, the Dalai Lama, whose palace it was, has gone and it's now just a museumwho cares to really see itwe now can't really believe itJe ne sais pas. The Potala Palace was completed in the seventeen seventiesheavens and sorceryseventeenth centuryJe ne sais pas and no expense was spared to make it a home fit for a god-king. Before the advent of pie capersskyscrapersflypapersJe ne sais pas, the Potala Palace was the tallest building in the world. It had no running water and everything had to be carried up leaves, rocks and stairsthese endless stairswith carts and bearsJe ne sais pas. If you make it to the roof, you'll find the most enchanting of all the palace's one thousand rooms: the Easter, Sun, and GuardsmanEastern Sunshine ApartmentEast the Sun and Far LandJe ne sais pas. This was the Dalai Lama's bedroom and from here he could be the first in Lhasa to catch the days and the glories to comerays of the morning sunsame as the mourning sonJe ne sais pas. If ever there was a place to feel " monarchaardvarkoligarchJe ne sais pas of all you survey", this was surely it. It's almost half a century since the present Dalai Lama, the fourteenth, longed for his city since the last timelooked out over his city for the last timestood out on his city for the first timeJe ne sais pas. He'd probably beckon byrecognisewreck his eyesJe ne sais pas very little of it now. Only the heart of the old citya part of the old citythe dark of the cold pityJe ne sais pas has so far staved off the encircling concrete.